The Fall 2023 menswear fashion month came to a stunning conclusion with its Parisian revelry that celebrated the renowned French Maisons and their respective creative directors. Saint Laurent, under the tutelage of Anthony Vaccarello, returned to the City of Lights after having recently shown collections in Morocco and Los Angeles. Louis Vuitton’s collab with KidSuper marks another presentation without a creative director at the helm since the passing of Virgil Abloh. Fabric play was at the front and center of the Hermes show. For its part, the Italian contention included Prada, Fendi and Gucci was focus on sleek sophistication with an occasional homage to the outrageous.
Véronique Nichanian’s opted to present latest menswear collection for Hermès at the curved ground-floor hallway of the modernist Maison de L’Unesco building. Her direction was marked by unique details such as hidden pockets, an unexpected flash of leather on a pea coat or wide shoulders on shearling overcoats. To no one’s surprise, the Fall/Winter color palette was seasonally dark, primarily blacks and browns. True to Hermès’ heritage, there was lots of leather at times crafted into sport black leather slacks and joggers.
This season, the brand’s studio team and guest designer Colm Dillane channeled growing up “as members of the first generation raised on super-connectivity.” References to the digital age thus abounded in the creative and tailoring-heavy display — appearing at its most successful interpretation when kept simple. Patterns evoked encrypted computer coding, while handwritten notes were upcycled to produce a surreal white suit and top hat look whose façade was constructed entirely of the note paper.
Held at the École Militaire, Matthew M Williams’ latest menswear collection for Givenchy, was a nod to a new formality easily traced to house founder Hubert de Givenchy. The evolution of the collection included a series of layered outfits featuring jeans and hoodies with a modern and clean vision. Though the collection celebrated dark and muted tones, there were few pieces in orange, pink, and green. The results were surprisingly bright moments, filled with pops of color to an otherwise sleek, near-monochromatic runway.
A sequel to Anthony Vaccarello’s recent menswear collections, defined by an aesthetic rigor and sharply drawn silhouettes, the fall 2023 was tempered by flashes of fluidity and romance. Ample volumes were featured in vast overcoats and wide-legged trousers inspired by the cut of sweatpants. The masculine and feminine concepts played out in a riff on the pussy bow and a series of hooded pieces, reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent’s ‘capuche’ dresses. The choice of fabric included wool, cashmere, mohair, smooth leather and patent leather fabrications. The collection also featured knitwear tunics with extended necks.
Silvia Venturini Fendi, the artistic director of accessories and menswear, sent out a wardrobe marked by classicism, with trompe-l’œil pieces that played with asymmetry and volume. Expressing exquisite craftsmanship, the House celebrated its hallmark materiality with double-faced cashmere, engineered leathers and jacquard silks. The sober palette ranged between shades of gray, oatmeal, burnt umber, mocha, mauve, lavender, navy and black.
The Italian fashion house kicked off Milan Fashion Week with its first show after the departure of Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s star designer, coincidently marking its return to the men’s catwalks after a three-year absence (under Michele, men’s collection was integrated into women’s shows.) As the brand has not yet named Michele’s successor, the collection was conceived and executed by the Maison’s creative team. Metallic colors, leather, blazers, and glitter are some of the major themes throughout the collection heralded as one of the most anticipated shows of this Fashion Week.
This season, the brand took its previous ideas of the literal, the workwear, the practical, and doubled down on reality above all else. A flood of dark tailoring set the tone of the show, precise and oversized and glossy, a formulaic approach was translated through minimalistic lines, sumptuous fabrications like buttery suede, cozy knitwear and quilting, and Prada’s signature sensibilities. Void of gimmicks and rampant celebrity presence, the show was a celebration of floating sailor collars poking out of lapels and peeking over cardigans plus some fabulous top handle book bags that will rank high on everyone’s must have list.
Be sure to visit https://aventuramall.com/Shops/ to check out these collections in person when they arrive in stores later this year.
