Under the helm of its two last creative directors, the most ultimate of British brands has gone through an interesting metamorphosis over the course of the last decade. Made modern and tres fashionable by Christopher Bailey until 2018 and revisited by Riccardo Tisci, who faced some criticism on his less-obviously British direction, Burberry was seeking a reset. And with Daniel Lee ascending to its throne as the new creative director, it may have well found it.
Considered one of the most anticipated of fall/winter 2023 shows, Lee’s debut at the emblematic Kennington Park in South London, in a space designed especially for the occasion, was a rousing display of a British take on the storied marque and the many of the mixed and matched tartans, revisited brand codes and British cheekiness par excellence.
Plaid in purple, pop yellow and fuchsia pink were affixed to suits, coats, and soft knits, and featured a whiff of grunge era. Lee’s choice of grunge over typically British idea of punk was well noted. Kilt-style skirts were shown over tartan trousers, as well as the Argyle and English rose print sweaters. The classic check print was blown up and presented in bold palettes across tailoring, blanket coats and knits, alongside an evolution of the Equestrian Knight Design (EKD). Lee’s love of color was reiterated through a color story that included royal blue, yellow and green, combined with rich purples, bold red and pink, reinterpreted and paired together in a modern way. The homage to brand’s heritage trench coat was decoded in an oversized coat with faux fur-trimmed lapels. The car coat was deconstructed, and the duffle and aviator models were exaggerated with softer silhouettes.Â
The accessories ran the gamut from interesting yet classic bags, as well as shag-fur mules, fleece-trimmed suede wedges, sneakers that looked like a puffer jacket, chunky boots, and black brogues covered with straps. Lee, who previously worked at Bottega Veneta, shinned showing off his reverence for these products that will likely find a strong support among style fans and British-loving fashionistas. Judging by the names attending the show like Baz Luhrmann, Bianca Jagger, Bright, Jason Statham, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Naomi Campbell and Lee’s predecessor Christopher Bailey, Burberry’s reset is much endorsed.Â
To see the pieces in person, visit the Burberry shop located at on the Lower Level or call 305-932-9023 for more information. Â
