Ushering in a new chapter of its storied history as the grand dame of Italian luxury, Salvatore Ferragamo is rebranding simply as Ferragamo. The change in moniker signals not only a new logo designed by Peter Saville, the creative mind behind many record sleeves for Factory artists, most notably for Joy Division and New Order. The refresh marks Ferragamo’s new vibe, one that respects its heritage with a clear vision of the now. This revival is best represented by the debut of the label’s new creative director, Maximilian Davis. The young British designer, a graduate of the London College of Fashion, was born in a Trinidad-Jamaican family in Manchester. And at the age of only 26, Davis is already a design star — winning the hearts of celebrities like Rihanna, Dua Lipa, Kim Kardashian, and many more. The appointment of Davis is an important part of Ferragamo’s strategy of reaching younger consumers, and the creative director is already living up to expectations by breathing life into the nearly century-old establishment. His distinctive designs endeavor to boost sales in the ready-to-wear category, which would alter Ferragamo’s profile as predominantly footwear and leather purveyor.

Nevertheless, Davis’ re-energizing found strong footing in brand’s heritage, claiming, according to a press release, he “wanted to take a new perspective on Hollywood culture and pay homage to the origins of the Ferragamo brand.” From Salvatore Ferragamo’s 1959 heels for Marilyn Monroe to the 1988 Wanda bag, the young designer had dug into Ferragamo’s 95-year-old brand archives to reinterpret Hollywood classics with a contemporary aesthetic.

So, for the spring/summer 2023 season, draping, suiting and a relaxed fit took center stage on Davis’ runway, as models walked atop a bed of blood-red dyed sand situated amidst the forthcoming Portrait Milano Hotel (the former Archbishop’s Seminary of Milan). The sand is a cultural homage for Davis’ Caribbean background, which has informed some of the sartorial inspiration of this collection. Organza fabrics, along with sheer knits and liquid silks comprised three-piece suiting, utilitarian jacket and pants sets, column dresses, asymmetrical tops and swimwear. Surprises in the form of barely-there men’s shorts and razor-sharp leather helped to ramp up the sexy factor in the collection, while contrast-color sleeving on sports jackets accentuated Davis’ appreciation for the bold. Additionally tying the collection into the brand’s heritage of Hollywood glam and prestige footwear, Davis used the iconic Ferragamo “Gancini” emblem (recognizable on belt buckles and bag closures), as an enlarged heel for several featured shoes.