After months of feverish speculations, Riccardo Tisci ushered in a new era at Burberry that, unlike his previous sartorial incarnations, was poised and very lady-like. Gone were the dramatic goth statements from his Givenchy days, so was the brand’s keen focus on cultish streetwear so very synonymous with Burberry under the tutelage of Christopher Bailey. That shift was on full display way before the show with a periodical release of sold-out graphic tops marked up with the new Peter Seville-designed logo that was somehow subtle and classic.
One might argue the presentation was inspired by Burberry’s trench coat, that beloved utilitarian classic that has morphed since its inception into a trendy yet always on point statement piece. Silks and belts were the boldest accents in an otherwise understated return to simplicity. Shades of khaki and chocolate browns neutralized all looks. The runway wasn’t entirely void of wow moments. There was a bustier dress in trench coat martial as well as deer and animal print that aimed to zing up the parade. The final grouping of long unadorned black dresses was the most overt throwback to classic Tisci in looks that were sexy, lean and edgy.
Men’s fashion interwoven with women was another homage to old school Burberry, with Cool Britannia vibes and some fabulous accessories like a chic umbrella sling-sleeve and over the top croc briefcases.
It will take some time for Tisci to find his footing amidst incredibly high expectations. He has over-delivered with the brands in the past. No doubt Burberry will be no different.